WARNING!
BE VERY CAREFUL WITH WASHING
MACHINES (PARTICULARLY FRONT LOADERS!) AND ELECTRIC CLOTHES DRYERS!
TO KEEP THE LIDS CLOSED AT ALL TIMES AND EVEN THEN TO CHECK CAREFULLY BEFORE
EVER TURNING THE MACHINE ON THAT THERE IS NO CAT OR KITTEN IN THE MACHINE!
I KNOW OF TWO CASES RECENTLY WHERE CATS HAVE BEEN KILLED BY BEING IN THE MACHINE WHEN SOMEONE TURNED IT ON!
THAT IS NOT A NICE WAY TO
GO!
THE CLOTHES BOWL OF THESE
MACHINES MAKES AN IRRESISTIBLE "CAVE" FOR ANY CAT TO CLIMB
INTO.
KEEP THE DOORS TO THE MACHINES
FIRMLY CLOSED AT ALL TIMES
AND ALSO MAKE SURE EVERYONE IN THE HOUSEHOLD CHECKS
CAREFULLY FOR ANY CAT OR KITTEN BEFORE THEY TURN ON THE
MACHINE!
DIET FOR YOUR BIRMAN KITTEN
WATER: MUST be available at all times. (Even if it seldom seems to drink it) JUST MILK OR MILK MIXTURE IS NOT SUFFICIENT - milk is NOT an alternative to water. Regard milk more as another food rather than as a drink.
BREAKFAST:
(1) A SMALL TIN OR A SACHET OF FISH Use a reputable brand such as Snappy Tom or Dine as the cheaper brands are seldom nutritionally complete. (Any fish variety except tuna ; tuna is addictive to cats). Either sprinkle cheese (quite a lot!) on top or preferably serve more separately
If the kitten eats it all then fill the bowl again!
(2) MILK
Use an Evaporated milk50%/water50% mixture (not any stronger as it will give your kitten diarrhoea) or use "cats" milk : Whiskas or Pets Own. Do not use ordinary milk as it is too high in lactose and not high enough in protei . Cat's mum's milk is 3 times higher in protein than cows milk.
Preferably add the following (to 1/2 cup of the pets milk or the evaporated milk/water mixture)
1 teaspoon of high protein baby cereal (Heinz or Farex for very young babies)
1/2 to 1 Teaspoon of Glucodin or Glucomed powder.
2 or 3 drops of liquid Pentavite.
1or 2 teaspoons of liquid calcium in the form of Sandoz Syrup.
Mix the dry ingredients together then gradually add a little of the liquid to the dry cereal and Glucodin and mix to a smooth paste, then add the rest of the pets milk and mix. Do not give kitten ordinary milk, it is too high in lactose & far too low in protein. (Mother cat's milk is three times higher in protein than cow's milk.)
Leave this milk mixture down during the day with a saucer of GRATED CHEDDAR ("TASTY") CHEESE and a bowl of professional quality dry food and, of course, water.
LUNCH
Same as breakfast or a meat meal.
NIGHT MEAL:
A plate of minced or finely chopped BEEF (approximately one large handful)
PLUS:
A bowl of warm milk mixture (see above) with egg yolk beaten into it.
If your kitten eats it all give it a second helping.
Leave this meal down during the night as most kittens like to snack and will not eat it all at once.
GRASS:
INDOOR CATS (i.e. CATS-WITHOUT OUTDOOR ACCESS TO GRASS) MUST BE PROVIDED WITH A BUNCH OF COARSE GRASS EVERY 2 OR 3 DAYS. SEE "SAFETY".
EXTRAS:
Cooked chicken (with all bones carefully removed)
Raw chicken
Cooked fish & cooked meats.
When cat is a bit older - Raw Chicken wings (to keep teeth & gums healthy.)
Organ meats, such as liver of kidney (chopped finely) once a week only as they are very high in vitamin A and large doses of vitamin A can be toxic.
Good quality dry cat biscuits - once a week only unless it is a professional formula. Dry cat foods are high in magnesium which can cause serious bladder problems. However Wiskas Professional Formula or another high quality dry cat food (available from vets) can be fed every day. A budget alternative to these expensive dry foods is Wiskas 'Extra Care' dry kitten food.
BRINGING THE NEW KITTEN HOME..
When you first bring your kitten home it may be nervous, so when you are not with it confine it to one room for the first few days. Later on, if you must leave the kitten alone for a long period such as while you are at work, shut it in one room or it will cry and get lost because it is looking for you.
Give kitten lots of love, and attention. (Including spending time playing with it)
WE RECOMMEND THAT YOU KEEP YOUR CAT INDOORS ALL ITS LIFE AS BIRMANS ARE HAPPY AS INDOOR CATS, PARTICULARLY IF THEY HAVE BEEN KEPT INSIDE FROM THE TIME THEY WERE KITTENS.
Even if you intend to allow your to go outdoors later on, it should not be allowed out for the first few weeks, and only then under close supervision. (Please read sections below (under 'Safety') on indoor cats versus indoor/outdoor cats and the section on introducing the kitten to other pets.)
TOILET ARRANGEMENTS
The kitten has been toilet trained to use recycled paper cat litter in a plastic tray. Do not put too much into the tray as the kitten will kick it out. Place the tray where it can easily be found by the kitten and always leave it in the same place. The first time you put it down place the kitten on the tray so it knows where it is. Keep the litter clean by removing soiled litter as soon as possible, at the very least daily, and totally renew the litter every three to five days. Clean the tray with hot water to remove all organic material first and then disinfect it with household bleach. (Bleach is inactivated by organic material)
If the litter is dirty or smelly the kitten may refuse to use it and go elsewhere.
GROOMING
COMBING:
When the kitten becomes a cat daily combing with a fine-toothed plastic comb or preferably a steel comb with revolving teeth removes dead hair which might otherwise be ingested and cause hairballs. Do NOT use ordinary steel combs which will hurt the cat and make it dislike being groomed. Daily combing is essential during the moulting season so get the kitten used to it while still young. The kitten can also be brushed daily which he will enjoy.
BATHING:
If dirty the kitten can be bathed in a wash basin:.... Lather two or three times with Palmolive or Sunlight dishwashing liquid or Martha Gardiner's Wool Mix then rinse very thoroughly and towel dry thoroughly A normal human type hairdryer can then be used to get the coat really dry. Keep the kitten in a warm draught free area until it is absolutely dry!
Normally bathing is not required unless the cat is being taken to a show or has somehow become dirty.
EYES:
Clear eyes and nose daily of any blockage from food or powder.
DO NOT USE ORDINARY STEEL BRUSHES OR COMBS - USE BRISTLE BRUSHES ONLY AND FINE TOOTHED PLASTIC COMBS WITH ROUND ENDED TEETH ...OR ....STEEL COMBS WITH REVOLVING TEETH (AVAILABLE FROM PET SHOPS)
EARS
Check ears once a week and clean with a dampened cotton wool ball if necessary. (Do NOT probe ear with a cotton bud.) If there is an accumulation of black or brown wax in the ear it probably means the kitten is suffering from ear mite infestation and need veterinary attention &/or treatment with Revolution (available over-the -counter from vets).
In outdoor cats ear mites are very common. Unless you keep your cat inside at all times it is quite likely to catch them.
Symptoms of ear mites can include any or all of the following: scratching at the ear, holding head at an angle, head shaking and an accumulation of black or brown wax in the ear.Ear mites need veterinary attention at once for not only are they intensely irritating, But also secondary infections from neglected cases can even perforate the ear drum.
..
CLAW CLIPPING
Clip claws of indoor cats every one or two weeks, as demonstrated when you adopted your kitten. If the breeder of the kitten did not demonstrate this for you ask your vet to do so - it is very easy and quick when you know how. Also, as your cat gets older, if he is an indoor cat, he will need a scratching post to keep his claws in good order and to prevent him using your furniture for that purpose. An out door cat will also need his nails clipped from time to time, but usually less frequently than does an indoor cat.
COMMON PROBLEMS
FLEAS
If your kitten catches fleas from other cats use one of the new products available: ONE OF THE MANY NEW FLEA TREATMENTS MAY BE SAFER AND IS MORE EFFECTIVE THAN FLEA POWDER. Your vet will recommend one he thinks best. I have found that Revolution is effective, easy to use, well tolerated by the cat and more importantly if used monthly also protects against heartworm, ear mites, and hookworms!
WITH ALL THE NEW TREATMENTS NOW AVAILABLE THERE IS NO EXCUSE FOR ANY CAT OR DOG HAVING TO PUT UP WITH FLEAS.
It is important to treat the cat's bedding and environment as well as the cat. This is where fleas breed and where the great majority of them are to be found, at any one time. To treat the environment use a spray product or one recommended by your vet.
Notes:
(1) flea collars and flea powders should be avoided , they should not be used at all, as they can cause other nasty problems and are not particularly effective anyway.
(2) Ticks are only a problem if you live in a tick prone area. If you do, then check your cat daily for lumps on the skin.
if you discover any see your vet at once as ticks can produce toxins which can kill a cat within 24 hours.
HAIRBALLS (furballs)
Hairballs cause vomiting and or constipation which if untreated can be serious. Although Birmans get few hairballs compared to other long-haired cats, nearly all adult cats get them from time to time, especially when moulting or when they first get their new winter coat; however daily combing at these times with a fine toothed plastic comb or the far more effective revolving toothed steel comb will get rid of most of the loose hair which would otherwise be ingested by the cat and cause a hairball to be formed
WARNING: UNTREATED HAIRBALLS & CONSTIPATION CAN BE FATAL!
As a preventive measure provide your cat with coarse grass to nibble on, (see above under "Diet") it acts as an emetic to rid the cat of any hairballs. (Note: Hairballs, when vomited up, look more like pale sausages than balls.) A teaspoon or two of vegetable oil added to your cat's food twice weekly is helpful.
Persistent cases may be treated with Catelax (which can also be used as a preventive measure, see instructions~ on label). Rarely, hairballs can cause a more serious blockage and this of course must be treated by the vet.
WORMS
Kittens must be wormed every two weeks, until 4 months old, every month until 6 months old then every three months for the rest of their life to prevent roundworm, hookworm and tapeworm. Symptoms: Any or all of the following: Spiky fur, 'pot belly', vomiting and coughing, diarrhoea and weight loss.
Make a note in your diary or on a calendar of when the next worm treatment is due.
VACCINATION
(When you collect your kitten it will have already received at least one vaccination and have been Vet checked.) Your Kitten MUST be vaccinated to protect it against feline 'flu and enteritis.
Un-vaccinated cats have a bad habit of dying!
Initial vaccination is required at eight weeks old, then the 'permanent' injection at twelve weeks, followed by yearly boosters. New vaccination protocols call for only bi-annual or three yearly boosters. Ask your vet's advice on this.
(Refer to the Vaccination Certificate for when the next one is due).
While at the Vet's surgery for inoculation have its health Vet-checked again.
Note: It is important to record in your diary or on a calendar when the next vaccination is due, as not all vets send out reminders.
SPAYING AND CASTRATION: If you bought your Birman as a 'pet' or 'show neuter' and it was not already neutered you have probably agreed, as a LEGALLY BINDING condition of purchase, to spay or castrate it. (This should be done at six months old at the latest or you might have a pregnant cat on your hands - females can get pregnant from 4 months old approximately). In any case, quite apart from this agreement, it is the responsible thing to have your cat neutered. Un-spayed female cats have litter after litter of kittens which add to cat over-population and feral cat problems. Un-neutered females and males do not make such loving pets as do neutered cats. Also females behave loudly and neurotically while in season and unaltered tom cats (and females when in "season") spray the walls and furniture with pungent urine. For both males and females the operation is safe and simple but if your Vet is unused to Birmans tell him /her that they may require less anaesthetic than some other breeds.
SAFETY
You should cat-child proof your home just as you would for a human baby , remember cat-children can climb even better than the other sort . Be observant and imaginative and ..look around your home for possible danger areas where an intelligent and imaginative kitten could get into trouble.
Possible hazards include: electrical cords. candles, irons, washing machines, particularly if anyone is in the habit of leaving the top or door of the washing machine open, toilets, sharp utensils, needles, pins, plastic bags, open cupboards and drawers, high balconies, detergents, cleaning products, poisonous plants (including pot plants) and other pets.
BE VERY CAREFUL WITH WASHING MACHINES (PARTICULARLY FRONT LOADERS!) AND ELECTRIC CLOTHES DRYERS TO KEEP THE LIDS CLOSED AT ALL TIMES AND EVEN THEN TO CHECK CAREFULLY BEFORE EVER TURNING THE MACHINE ON THAT THERE IS NO CAT OR KITTEN IN THE MACHINE! I KNOW OF TWO CASES WHERE CATS HAVE BEEN KILLED BY BEING IN THE MACHINE AND SOMEONE TURNS IT ON! NOT A NICE WAY TO GO! THE WARM COVERED IN MACHINE MAKES AN IRRESISTABLE "CAVE" FOR ANY CAT TO CLIMB INTO. BE AWARE AND MAKE SURE EVERYONE IN THE HOUSEHOLD CHECKS CAREFULLY BEFORE EVER TURNING ON THE MACHINE!
Here are some tips for keeping your cats out
of danger .
Christmas tree water may contain fertilizers,
which, if ingested, can cause stomach upset. Stagnant tree water can be breeding
grounds for bacteria, which can also lead to vomiting, nausea, and diarrhea, if
ingested. Electric cords - Avoid pet exposure to electric cords. If they
were chewed, they could electrocute your cat. Cover up or hide electric cords,
never let your cat chew on them. Ribbons or tinsel can get caught up in
the intestines and cause intestinal obstruction. Batteries contain
corrosives. If ingested they can cause ulceration to the mouth, tongue, and the
rest of the gastrointestinal tract. Glass ornaments can cut the tissues
of the gastrointestinal tract if ingested.
Antifreeze has a pleasant taste. Unfortunately,
very small amounts can be lethal. As little as one teaspoon of antifreeze can be
deadly to a cat. Thoroughly clean up any spills, store antifreeze in tightly
closed containers and store in secured cabinets. If you think your cat has
consumed antifreeze, contact your veterinarian right away! Liquid Potpourris are popular household
fragrances commonly used during the holiday season. Cats are often exposed to
liquid potpourri by direct ingestion from simmer pots or spills, or by rubbing
against leaky bottles or simmer pots containing the potpourri, or from spilling
the containers upon themselves. Oral exposures result following grooming.
Exposure of cats to some types of liquid potpourris can result in severe oral,
dermal and ocular damage.
Ice melting
products can be irritating to skin and mouth. Depending on the actual
ingredient of the ice melt and the quantity, signs of ingestion would include
excessive drooling, depression, vomiting or even electrolyte imbalances. Rat
and mouse killers are used more commonly during colder weather. When using
rat and mouse bait, place the products in areas that are inaccessible to your
cats. Your cat may become poisoned in spite of your best efforts to prevent it.
You should keep telephone numbers for your veterinarian, a local emergency
veterinary service, and the
Suggested Precautions:
Turn off all electric outlets before you leave the kitten alone in a room.
Do not let kitten play with electric cords.
Do not leave saucepan handles sticking out from the stove.
Keep kitten well away from stove and out of the bathroom if using hot water.
Do not pour hot liquids while kitten is near your feet.
Avoid use of table-cloths especially if you put hot or dangerous items on the table.
Lock cupboards containing poisons such as medicines, household cleaners, detergents, dishwasher or washing powders etc. and always put these items away safely immediately you have finished using them. By the way, if your kitten (and most do) likes to chase blowflies, and of course catch them, do not use toxic fly sprays (including surface spray), use a fly swat. If you must use fly spray, put kitty in another room while spraying, use only the knock-down type, and dispose of the dead flies.
Always put the lavatory seat down! The water in toilets often attracts kittens and they can easily drown if they fall in.
Similarly an open door on a washing machine virtually invites the kitten or cat to snuggle inside and if someone then turns on the machine - goodbye kitty! (This actually happened to a friend of mine's cat!)
KEEP THE KITTEN OR CAT INDOORS.
IF YOU MUST LET KITTEN GO OUTSIDE MAKE SURE YOU ARE WITH IT AT ALL TIMES.
WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU KEEP YOUR CAT INDOORS ALL ITS LIFE AS BIRMANS ARE VERY HAPPY AS INDOOR CATS, PARTICULARLY IF THEY HAVE BEEN KEPT INSIDE FROM THE TIME THEY WERE KITTENS,
YOU, (AND YOUR CAT ! ) WILL BE FAR LESS LIKELY TO SUFFER THE TRAUMA OF ITS BEING LOST - OR STOLEN - OR ILL .
THE CAT WILL BE SAFE FROM OTHER DANGERS SUCH AS:
CARS, DOGS, POISONS SUCH AS SNAIL BAIT (WHICH IS HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE TO CATS) AND SNAKES. (MORE CATS ARE KILLED BY SNAKES THAN VICE VERSA)
YOU WILL AVOID HAVING YOUR CAT CATCH THE NASTY DISEASES AND PARASITES (SUCH AS FLEAS, OR WORSE : EAR MITES OR RINGWORM AND OTHERS) COMMON IN FREE RANGING CATS.
YOUR VETS BILLS WILL BE MINIMAL.
YOUR GARDEN WILL BE SAFE FOR NATIVE BIRDS AND SMALL NATIVE ANIMALS.
IF FOR SOME REASON YOU CANNOT KEEP YOUR CAT INDOORS ALL THE TIME, AT LEAST. INSIST THAT IT WEARS A COLLAR (WITH SAFETY STRETCH INSERT) AND ATTACH AT LEAST TWO BELLS TO THE COLLAR IN SUCH A WAY THAT THEY JINGLE AGAINST EACH OTHER. EVEN MORE IMPORTANTLY, MAKE CERTAIN THAT KITTY IS SHUT INDOORS FROM JUST BEFORE TWILIGHT UNTIL AFTER DAWN. THIS WILL PROTECT OUR VULNERABLE NATIVE NOCTURNAL ANIMALS AND ROOSTING BIRDS.
!REMINDER!
REMEMBER THAT FOR INDOOR CATS YOU SHOULD :
(1) Provide a flowerpot or two of the coarse grass cats like. Alternatively, provide a handful of fresh pulled or picked grass every day or two .
(2) Provide a scratching post ( They seem to appreciate the sort covered with carpet turned back to front.) If you do not provide a scratching post be prepared for shredded furnishings.
(3) Clip the nails on the front paws once a week or fortnight.I if you clip only the curved over part,carefully avoiding the red vein, you will have no trouble.Un-clipped nails are very uncomfortable for the cat , it can get its nails caught in the carpet for example, and painful for you when you handle the cat.
TRAINING
Cats can be trained! All you need is patience and a system of rewards. Rewards are far more effective than punishment. Never, ever, punish a cat for misbehaviour by hitting it.This does not work. If you punish your cat with anything more physical than a firm "NO !" or at most a light finger tap on the nose, it will seriously damage its delicate relationship with you. A cat's trust of you, once lost, is very difficult to regain.
INTRODUCTION TO OTHER PETS
At first keep the new kitten separated from other pets (separate rooms or cages) but in such a manner that they can see and sniff at each other. When, after a few days or hours they seem to have accepted each other introduce them carefully. The best time for them to meet is probably at mealtime. Each animal should be given its own dish, well apart from each other. With luck your older pet will not even notice the interloper until he has finished feeding, and the encounter is likely to be more relaxed all around.. Be prepared to rescue the kitten however if the older animal is hostile. Kittens are sometimes killed by older pets.
DO NOT LEAVE THEM ALONE TOGETHER.
UNTIL YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THAT THERE IS NO HOSTILITY ALL MEETINGS MUST BE SUPERVISED.THIS MAY TAKE A WEEK OR TWO AT LEAST.
Give the older animal extra love and attention and do not pay the new arrival too much attention in front of the older pet. Or you will make the older pet hate the new one because of jealousy.
Although it can happen. it is not realistic to expect an instant friendship between two (or more) animals. Be patient~ hostility usually turns to indifference within a couple of months, friendship can take even longer.
KEEP ANY DOG ON A LEAD WHEN INTRODUCING IT TO A KITTEN, AND/OR CONFINE THE KITTEN TO A WIRE CAGE.
If you have birds, fish or any other small pet animals careful precautions should be taken to protect them from the kitten. Never leave them alone together. Except in very rare cases cats do not form friendships with birds, and I've never ever heard of a cat who regarded fish as anything but fish dinner.
TAKING YOUR CAT TO THE VET
There may occasionally be times when your cat will need your first aid or the Vet's attention, Particularly if you allow the cat to have contact with outside cats
.
PLEASE! PLEASE! TAKE IT IN A PROPER CAT CARRIER! CATS ARE FREQUENTLY LOST WHEN BEING TAKEN TO THE VET BECAUSE THEY ARE HELD IN THE ARMS OR ARE IN AN INADEQUATE CARDBOARD CARRIER OR BOX. Your cat may be perfectly happy in your arms outdoors but could easily be spooked or frightened by a car, horse, dog, other cat etc ......and have you ever tried to hold onto a panicking frantic cat??? I doubt it can be done without your needing serious medical attention afterwards. I have often seen a sad little advert in the local paper; something along the lines of: LOST, in the vicinity of ****** veterinary clinic....female tabby cat, answers to Sweetie Pie ...etc.
Your best preventive measures to keep visits to the vet to a minimum are:
(1) Adopt a healthy cat
(2) Feed it a balanced nutritional diet.
(3) Give it lots of love and attention.
(4) Keep it as an indoor cat.
(5) Use sensible safety precautions.
(6) At all times observe your cat for any signs of illness, or any unusual behaviour or habit which could be an early warning sign of a problem.
(7) Take corrective measures promptly.
EQUIPMENT
A "Basic Kitten Starter Kit" would consist of.:
* Food and drink - Refer DIET.(first page)
* Non-tip food, milk mixture and water dishes.
* Cat litter - Re-cycled paper, lucerne or rice hulls based. DO NOT USE CLUMPING LITTERS THEY CAN BE FATAL TO KITTENS. Also refer 'Toilet Arrangements' .
* Plastic litter tray - Butchers supply shops sell durable, high quality plastic trays [Six inch (15cm) high sided meat trays actually] and they are no dearer than the flimsy cat litter trays sold in supermarkets and pet shops.
* Bedding - A corrugated cardboard box with 1foot (30cm) high sides to keep out draughts and make kitten feel secure will suffice - but line it with warm woollen material and place it in a warm quiet corner inside your house, with fresh water, evening meal, and toilet tray nearby. Your kitten will probably prefer to snuggle up with you on your bed anyway, so don't go to the expense of buying a commercial cat bed before your kitten and you have negotiated an agreement about where it is to sleep.
* Comb - a non-scratchy, fine-toothed plastic comb, or even better, a revolving toothed steel comb (NOT a stationry toothed, ordinary steel comb!)
*Toys - These can be bought - commercial cat toys, (the small toy mice are cheap and very popular), ping pong balls etc. or improvised - e.g. the cardboard tube from a toilet roll or scrunched up paper rolled into a ball (but do not use anything small enough to be swallowed.) A popular toy is any small item tied onto approx. a metre of hat elastic then the other end of the elastic tied to the back of a chair or a door handle. The elastic makes the toy spring about when attacked so it is far better than just string.
* Love and attention - this is the essential part of any equipment. Your cat will need this all its life so don't ever stop lavishing it on your cat.
YOUNG CHILDREN AND CATS OR KITTENS :
CHILDREN DO NOT AUTOMATICALLY KNOW HOW TO TREAT ANIMALS, THEY HAVE TO BE TAUGHT.
TEACH YOUR CHILD THE CORRECT WAY TO HOLD A CAT.
NEVER LET THE CHILD PLAY ROUGHLY WITH THE CAT /KITTEN.
DON'T LEAVE CATS/KITTENS AND YOUNG CHILDREN ALONE TOGETHER
APPENDIX:Possible Illnesses
CONSTIPATION:
Try a little undiluted Evaporated Milk or give the cat a teaspoonful of vegetable oil ; if this does not work use Catelax or a teaspoonful of mineral oil. (Use mineral oil sparingly, it is very strong and prevents proper absorption of vitamins and minerals from the food.) If the cat continues to be constipated ; seek veterinary attention : Constipation can be FATAL!
COUGHING
This is often a symptom of an hairball or worms, if you have eliminated these two possible causes and if the coughing is repeated or frequent, take the cat to the vet.
DIARRHOEA
Eliminate all milk and dairy products from the diet For mildly loose motions try mixing a little soft cooked and well mashed boiled rice with the kittens food. Mix 1 well in so that kitten cannot detect its presence. If the diarrhoea persists or is severe, consult your vet.
THE FOLLOWING COMPLAINTS NEED A VET'S ATTENTION:
NOTE: ALWAYS TAKE YOUR CAT TO THE VET (OR ANYWHERE ELSE) IN A STRONG SECURE CAT CARRY BASKET. MANY CATS ARE LOST FOREVER BECAUSE THEY SUDDENLY PANICKED AND JUMPED FROM THEIR OWNERS' ARMS, OR BECAUSE THEY DASHED OUT THROUGH A CAR DOOR WHEN IT WAS OPENED. ALSO AN UNRESTRAINED CAT IN THE CAR CAN EASILY CAUSE AN ACCIDENT, PARTICULARLY BY GETTING UNDER THE PEDALS
ENTERITIS, FELINE :I This, the most dangerous cat disease, is preventable by Vaccination. Feline enteritis can kill in less than 72 hours and the death rate is very high in cats under one year old. Symptoms of enteritis are fever, depression, severe stomach pain, vomiting, bloody diarrhoea and dehydration.
Vaccination for feline enteritis is usuaIly done at the same time as vaccination for feline flu. Yearly boosters are required.
EYE SORENESS OR DAMAGE : Note however that an accumulation of brown 'sleep' at the inner corner of the eye is normal in a Birman and should be cleaned away daily with a dampened paper tissue or ball of cotton wool
FELINE FLU : If your cat sneezes repeatedly or has other cold or flu like symptoms take it to the vet. Feline flu can kill. Yearly vaccination boosters will minimize the risk.
INFLAMED GUMS OR TARTAR: Examine you cat's s teeth and mouth regularly for tartar and inflamed gurns. Inflamed gums indicate gingivitis and should be referred to your vet for treatment. Brushing our cat's teeth, feeding a dry food regularly and giving raw chicken bones to chew can help prevent these problems, however if they do occur, take your cat to the vet .If your kitten has bad breath, salivates excessively or has difficulty eating he may have a dental problem Again, take it to the vet.
Feeding a high quality (only available from pet shops and vets) dry cat food can help prevent dental problem and can be fed daily , whereas other dry cat foods can only be fed once a week as they are high in magnesium which can contribute to kidney and bladder diseases in cats.
RAPID PANTING OR HEARTBEAT OR FROTHING AT THE MOUTH: If any of these occur rush your cat to the vet it could have been poisoned or bitten by a spider or snake.
URINATION/BLADDER PROBLEMS: Symptoms: Unsuccessful attempts to urinate, particularly if the cat seems to be in pain; or frequent urination,loss of bladder control , blood stained urine etc : This indicates bladder problems such as blockage of the urethra by crystals and must be treated immediately. The crystals cause intense pain when the cat tries to pass them. Neutered male cats are particularly at risk as their urethra narrows after castration. If your cat seems in pain when trying to urinate, do not delay: rush it to the vet.
VOMITING: is often an indication of hairballs. It can also indicate worms. (See Above)
Your kitten or cat may occasionally regurgitate a meal but if it does so , more than two or three times in a row, or frequently, and you are satisfied that due to your preventive measures it is neither worms or hairballs, then take your cat to the vet.
Note, some dry cat foods and tinned tuna can cause cats to vomit - so don't feed your cat with them.. (Tuna should also be avoided as it is addictive to cats and cats fed on it will refuse other foods. - particularly if they have been fed it as kittens.
GOOD DIET + GOOD CARE +LOVE AND ATTENTION = PURRFECT CAT